Contemporary avant-garde jewellery in South Africa

Boezaart, Kim (2000-12)

Thesis (MA)--University of Stellenbosch, 2000.

Thesis

ENGLISH ABSTRACT: This study considers the dynamics and nature of neo-avant-garde jewellery with specific reference to contemporary South African (neoavant- garde) jewellery. In Chapter One defensible working descriptions of the terms "avant-garde" and "neo-avant-garde" are established in order to establish some manageable conclusions regarding their application to jewellery design. These descriptions are derived from a consideration of the concepts in contemporary aesthetic discourse. Chapter Two considers the role, justifications and implications of adornment with a view to isolating the development, influences and nature of neo-avant-garde jewellery. A distinction is drawn between the aesthetics, ontology and art-relevant status of such jewellery and commercial or mainstream jewellery. Chapter Three analyses specific examples of contemporary South African avant-garde jewellery in the light of the above-mentioned distinctions. Works are considered in relation to the transgression of material, the transgression of taste, the transgression of integrity of form and the integration of narrative and parochial content and attempts to demonstrate that an appropriate critical posture in regard to such jewellery is art, rather than craft-relevant. In Chapter Four general influences regarding themes and concepts apparent in the author's body of practical work are discussed. An annotated catalogue supplements the general discussion.

AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: CONTEMPORARY AVANT-GARDE JEWELLERY IN SOUTH AFRICA Hierdie studie ondersoek die dinamika en karaktereienskappe van neoavant- garde juweliersware, met spesifieke verwysing na kontemporêre Suid-Afrikaanse neo-avant-garde juweliersware. In Hoofstuk Een word die terme "avant-garde" en "neo-avant-garde" beskryf. Die doel hiervan is om uiteindelik die omvattende gebruike en definisies van hierdie terme (met betrekking op kontemporêre estetika) vas te lê. Hoofstuk Twee gee 'n oorsig aangaande die redes vir- en implikasies van fisieke versiering. Die ontwikkeling, invloede en aard van neo-avant-garde juweliersware word bespreek en gekontrasteer met komersiêle jeweliersware. In lig van die bogenoemde onderskeidings verwys Hoofstuk Drie na spesifieke Suid-Afrikaanse voorbeelde van neo-avant-garde juweliersware. Hierdie voorbeelde word oorweeg in terme van hul oorskryding van tradisionele grense aangaande materiaalgebruik, smaak, integriteit van vorm en die integrasie van relaas. Die studie poog om die relevansie van neo-avant-garde juweliersware as kuns eerder as kunsvlyt te demonstreer. In Hoofstuk Vier word die outeur se praktiese werke bespreek deur middel van 'n geannoteerde katalogus. Die katalogus word voorafgegaan deur 'n bespreking van invloede, temas en konsepte van die deurlopende ooreenkomste in die outeur se werke verduidelik.

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