Development of standardized sizing systems for the South African children’s wear market

Date
2006-04
Authors
Van Huyssteen, S.
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
Stellenbosch : University of Stellenbosch
Abstract
ENGLISH ABSTRACT: This research focused on the need of the children’s wear industry in South Africa for sizing systems based on accurate and current body measurement tables developed from the actual measurements of children. The broad objective of this study was to develop standardised measuring methodologies and techniques which would be relevant to the subsequent development of reliable, accurate and comprehensive body measurement tables. These tables could then be implemented as a basis for the development of new sizing systems, as well as new, improved and authentic fit dummy ranges. The literature study served as a point of departure for the planning and execution of the empirical study, focusing on sizing and size designation systems. The study population comprised children representative of three categories, namely age (2 to 14 years), gender (boys and girls) and sector (Black and Non-Black) categories. A convenience sample was selected, representing children from two geographical areas (Western Cape and Gauteng). The empirical study has a three phase structure. The first pilot study aimed at developing standardised measuring equipment, as well as the methodologies and properly recorded guidelines for their implementation. The specific standards according to which subjects were measured and the strict quality control measures implemented to ensure the validity, reliability and accuracy of recorded data, were confirmed during the second pilot study. Based on this, the final study was executed following the guidelines as recorded in the Field Worker Manual. The statistical analysis was done after data capturing during which the data sets were first cleaned up. Secondly, the key measurements for use as a basis for the development of the sizing systems were identified. Based on these, body measurement tables were compiled and age of gender split and growth patterns were analysed for fit dummy prototype development. The new size designation system developed for children’s clothing was successfully implemented as a multi-indicator system, linking height ranges with both age ranges and numerical size indicators. The development of the subsequent new and improved fit dummy prototypes was based on measurements within minimum and maximum values of the body measurements, in order to facilitate the construction of these three-dimensional bodies. It was also possible to develop complete body measurement tables with accurate, and notably irregular, increments between sizes as well as to determine specific growth patterns and separate growth spurts for both boys and girls. This study made new and original as well as more detailed and correct information available concerning the size and shape of the typical South African children’s wear consumer. Using the information contained in the new height based sizing system, retailers have been able to develop a proper set of grade rules for application in product development. The identification and demarcation of important body landmarks facilitated pattern drafting, garment development and fit assessments, resulting in an improved product offering for the typical South African children’s wear consumer. Recommendations regarding further research were formulated, such as comparing the study population categories, namely gender, age and sector. Implications for retailers, inter alia that each retail company could choose how to implement the new height based sizing system and the specific size designation system most suitably for their own consumers and internal systems. The standards set and methodologies implemented in this survey were an improvement on the sizing and fit of children’s wear in the context of South African manufacturers, retailers and consumers.
AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Hierdie navorsing fokus op die behoefte van die Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklerekleinhandelbedryf aan ‘n sisteem van kleregroottes, gebaseer op akkurate en huidige liggaamsmate-tabelle wat ontwikkel is van die werklike mates van kinders. Die oorkoepelende doelstelling van hierdie studie was om gestandaardiseerde meetmetodologieë en -tegnieke te ontwikkel wat relevant is vir die daarstelling van betroubare, akkurate en omvattende liggaamsmate-tabelle, wat dan gebruik kan word as basis vir die nuwe kleregroottesisteem, sowel as om nuwe, verbeterde en oorspronklike figuurmodelreekse te ontwikkel. Die literatuurstudie het gedien as vertrekpunt vir die beplanning en uitvoering van die empiriese studie met die fokus op kleregroottesisteme en kleregrootteaanwysingsisteme. Die kinders in die studiepopulasie het drie kategorieë verteenwoordig: ouderdom (2 tot 14 jaar), geslag (seuns en meisies) en sektor (Swart en Nie-Swart). ‘n Gerieflikheidsteekproef is uit twee geografiese areas (Wes-Kaap en Gauteng) gekies. Die empiriese studie het ‘n drie-fase-struktuur. Die eerste loodsstudie het ten doel gehad om gestandaardiseerde meettoerusting, meetmetodologieë en behoorlik aangetekende implementeringsriglyne daar te stel. Die spesifieke standaarde waarvolgens die proefpersone gemeet is en die implementering van streng kwaliteitbeheermaatreëls wat geldige, betroubare en akkuraat vasgelegde data verseker, is tydens die tweede loodsstudie bevestig. Die finale studie is gebaseer op en uitgevoer volgens die riglyne soos uiteengesit in die Field Worker Manual. Die statistiese analise is gedoen nadat die data vasgelê en skoongemaak is. Vervolgens is sleutelmates geïdentifiseer wat as basis vir die ontwikkeling van kleregroottesisteme kan dien. Volledige liggaamsmate-tabelle is daarna ontwikkel. Die identifisering van die geslagverdelingsouderdom, sowel as die analisering van groeipatrone vir die ontwikkeling van figuurmodelle, is hierop gebaseer. Die nuwe klere-aanwysingsisteme wat ontwikkel is vir kinderklere is suksesvol geïmplementeer as ‘n veelvoudige aanwysingsisteem wat liggaamslengtereekse met ouderdomsreekse en numeriese grootte-aanwysers koppel. Die nuwe en verbeterde figuurmodel-prototipes wat vervolgens ontwikkel is, is gebaseer op minimum en maksimum waardes van die liggaamsmates ten einde die konstruksie van die driedimensionele figure te vergemaklik. Daarbenewens was dit moontlik om volledige liggaamsmate-tabelle met akkurate en opmerklik ongelyke inkremente tussen groottes daar te stel, sowel as om die spesifieke groeipatrone en afsonderlike groeitoenames vir beide seuns en meises te bepaal. Die studie het nuwe en oorspronklike, sowel as meer gedetailleerde en korrekte inligting ten opsigte van die grootte en vorm van die tipiese Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklereverbruiker beskikbaar gestel. Met hierdie nuwe kennis van die liggaamslengte-gebaseerde kleregroottesisteem, is dit nou vir kleinhandelaars moontlik om ‘n volledige stel graderingsreëls daar te stel en in produkontwikkeling toe te pas. Die identifikasie en afbakening van belangrike liggaamsbakens vergemaklik patroon- en klereontwikkeling sowel as die evaluering van die mate waarin dit pas; dit waarborg ‘n verbeterde produk vir die tipiese Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklereverbruiker. Aanbevelings vir verdere navorsing is gemaak, soos ‘n vergelyking van die studiepopulasiekategorieë, naamlik geslag, ouderdom en sektor. Die implikasies vir kleinhandelaars is onder meer dat elke kleinhandelaar kan kies hoe om hierdie nuwe liggaamslengte-gebaseerde kleregroottesisteem te implementer en watter die mees geskikte kleregrootte-aanwysingsisteem vir hul verbruikers en interne sisteme sal wees. Die standaarde wat vir hierdie studie gestel is, sowel as die metodologieë wat geïmplementeer is, is ‘n aansienlike verbetering op die groottes en pas van kinderklere binne die konteks van die Suid-Afrikaanse vervaardigers, kleinhandelaars en verbruikers.
Description
Thesis (DSc (Consumer Science)--University of Stellenbosch, 2006.
326 leaves on CD format, preliminary i-xix pages and numbered pages 1-210. Includes bibliography, list of tables, figures and appendixes.
Keywords
Clothing industry -- South Africa, Dissertations -- Consumer science, Theses -- Consumer science, Clothing and dress measurements, Children -- Clothing, Children's clothing -- Sizes -- South Africa
Citation